Ok, it looks like a Teletubby encampment but this weird little village of round red cement houses is actually corporate housing for James Finley Teas, one of Kenya’s biggest tea exporters.
In many ways it appears idyllic – groups of these houses are set in rolling tea fields which, from a distance, look like the frozen emerald froth of some great sea. The workers (“pluckers”, locally) are actually in pretty good shape by working class African standards. They are given free health care, their kids go to company schools, and the little round houses come with the job.
Still, tea plucking is backbreaking work and at 7 shillings a kilo, a good day’s take home would be only about $5. That’s better than the $1-per-day benchmark that the U.N. has set for the poorest of the world’s poor, but it’s not exactly easy money.
The tea plantations have worked with the U.S. military’s HIV program and many of these workers have been among the volunteers for HIV vaccine studies. From a researcher’s point of view, it’s a great “cohort” – a large group of people with relatively similar living patterns in a controlled environment.
Ironically, the pluckers are almost too good. They are generally seen as at a low risk for HIV, so discovering whether or not a potential vaccine would work is that much harder – is it the vaccine working, or is it simply that these workers are too bushed to get up to much risky behaviour?
For that reason, the Walter Reed program (like the IAVI group in Mtwapa I mentioned before) is gearing up to bring a high risk group under study – commercial sex workers who make their living in the trucker bars and hostels along the main highway. This group will be harder to find, harder to enlist, and harder to track – but may, in any future vaccine study, be the ones with the answers.
I’m leaving Kericho and the Walter Reed program today. On Monday, I’m hoping to do another IAVI site in one of Nairobi’s many slums.
8 comments:
what do the houses look like on the inside? have any pix?
why round? form or function?
stuart
Dean here. Curious if the houses mimic an indigenous structure?
Also interested in US Army's work on vaccines, etc. Is their interest at the basic science (anti-retrovirus, etc) level or specifically HIV/AIDS?
Can't help wonder why they wouldn't cede the field to CDC USAID or some other lot.
'Loving your descriptions of clapped up Brit rockers...
What is the significance of round? I once stayed in a similar round structure in Zambia, but nobody could tell me why the houses were built that way.
Interesting story in today's WashPo about President's plan to sign bill for $40billion in overseas AIDS spending over next five years. I've posted to my facebook page.
Hope you are well.
Carline
Hi Andrew,
Just catching up on your blog. I haven't had access to Internet for a month now. You're doing great stuff! I feel the competitive juices flowing :)
C.
hi guys..thanks for the comments. I also thought Watson had a great future in PR!
There are some round huts (what you'd call rondavels) in the villages here but most are square so I don't think that's the reason for the shape -- to me it looked like they were easier to cast or perhaps chop off a giant pipe.
The U.S. Army has always been dug into vaccine work -- they see it as a strategic imperative to keep the troops safe and healthy enough to fight. With AIDS in particular the Army's policy of serving as a "Walking Blood Bank" for its own (i.e. service members contribute blood for other service members) gave them an added jolt of urgency.
Nice blog, Andrew--keep that Quinntelligence site name registered for the long run. If Stuart keeps advertising on your behalf, I picture a vast empire of punditry and witty remarks paid for via subscription.
On the round building topic: Some research I was reading about birds' ability to perceive optical illusions showed that at least one talking bird raised in carpentered (rectangular) buildings fell for a perspective-based optical illusion just as most humans do.
People who've investigated the same illusion using different human populations claim that those who live in round dwellings, such as as some "Zulus and Bushmen in Southern Africa, and Hanunóo in the Philippines" don't fall for the (Muller-Lyer) illusion at all.
Does anyone know if traditional Zulu buildings or huts were/are actually round?
andrea
adding to Stuart's pile-on. Curious whether workers/vaccine testers suffer from "bright lights" syndrome of study participants who know they are being studied cleaning up their act. Are some study participants getting placebo? Are they being checked against matched vaccine decliners? -- Dan
Andrew, I promise I won't ask any more questions about the round huts because I am at this moment too brain dead to have useful thoughts. Just want to give you kudos on the great line about Teletubbies. Wonderful way to describe them.
Have you considered a career as a professional writer?
I hope your trip is going well, and that the tea was excellent.
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